I’m always amazed at the fears that people have when it comes to surfing. There are risks associated with this sport, but many are minimal. After being struck in the face by a paddleboard earlier this year, I realize that freak accidents can happen even among experienced surfers. Getting over my fear of being hit again while in the water was crucial for me to enjoy the sport that I love so much.
In any physical sport, you need to determine if the benefits outweigh the risks and if the end result is worth it. If any of you have ridden a wave, I’m sure you will agree that when it comes to surfing, it most certainly is!
As a beginning surf instructor I hear many excuses from people about their hesitation to learn to surf. Often these excuses are based more on fear, so I decided to address the most common ones.
1. What about the sharks?
There are sharks in the ocean. Remember we are going into their environment. I know that sharks do not hunt us as prey, and most shark bites actually are a result of mistaken identity by the shark. We may look like a tasty seal or other aquatic animal. They are not waiting in the shadows for us to paddle out just so they can get a tasty lunch. They usually mind their own business and stay away from us. I’ve actually seen a few and felt one or two bump into me while in the water. I know people who will not go into the ocean due to their fear of sharks, and it saddens me that they are missing out on all the fun and pleasure the water has to offer.2. “I’m too old, too overweight or too out-of-shape.”
Surfing is a very physical sport, but never say you “can’t”. (My grandmother’s favorite saying is, “Can’t means you don’t want to!”) I’ve given lessons to women in their 60s! If you want to learn to surf, begin training for it now. I offer tips about “Getting in Surfing Shape,” and just like training for any other sport, if you begin to see the results, you will stay motivated. Soon you will be paddling faster, popping up quicker, and riding the wave longer.3. Surfing is too dangerous.
Surfing can be dangerous, especially if you don’t know what you’re doing or are out in conditions that you should not be. Make sure you take several lessons with a competent, knowledgeable and experienced surf instructor. Surfing isn’t just about riding a wave, it’s about safety, etiquette, proper board and wave selection, weather and swell conditions and other important factors that you should be aware of. Never paddle out in conditions that are too big for you. Know what you are capable of. As a beginner, riding a small, knee-high wave is just as much fun for you — as a head-high wave is for a more experienced surfer. Remember, you don’t have to prove anything. It’s all about having fun and enjoying the ocean.4. Falling is going to hurt!
Every surfer wipes out. As a beginner, it will happen many times. Luckily, water is very forgiving, and if you know how to relax and not try to fight it, you will be fine. If you’ve taken surf lessons, you will know how to protect yourself when you do fall to avoid injuries. At first, you may feel like you are inside a washing machine, but if you change your mindset from “Oh no!” to “Okay, here we go!” your wipeouts won’t be intimidating.5. Surfing is too difficult to learn.
Good surfers really make it look easy, don’t they? The truth is, surfing has a very high learning curve but that shouldn’t intimidate you. You will begin to realize that paddling through whitewater, catching your own waves, and getting to your feet takes a lot of endurance, patience and practice. Don’t expect to be the next Kelly Slater after your first lesson, but if you train hard, get in the water regularly and have fun, I promise you will be thankful that you ignored your fears and went for it! And when you catch that perfect wave — and ride it all the way in, you will turn around and go right back for more!
Photo Credit: Sarah Schwind
