Have No Fear of Surfing

I’m always amazed at the fears that people have when it comes to surfing. There are risks associated with this sport, but many are minimal. After being struck in the face by a paddleboard earlier this year, I realize that freak accidents can happen even among experienced surfers. Getting over my fear of being hit again while in the water was crucial for me to enjoy the sport that I love so much.
In any physical sport, you need to determine if the benefits outweigh the risks and if the end result is worth it. If any of you have ridden a wave, I’m sure you will agree that when it comes to surfing, it most certainly is!
As a beginning surf instructor I hear many excuses from people about their hesitation to learn to surf. Often these excuses are based more on fear, so I decided to address the most common ones.

1. What about the sharks?

There are sharks in the ocean. Remember we are going into their environment. I know that sharks do not hunt us as prey, and most shark bites actually are a result of mistaken identity by the shark. We may look like a tasty seal or other aquatic animal. They are not waiting in the shadows for us to paddle out just so they can get a tasty lunch. They usually mind their own business and stay away from us. I’ve actually seen a few and felt one or two bump into me while in the water. I know people who will not go into the ocean due to their fear of sharks, and it saddens me that they are missing out on all the fun and pleasure the water has to offer.

2. “I’m too old, too overweight or too out-of-shape.”

Surfing is a very physical sport, but never say you “can’t”. (My grandmother’s favorite saying is, “Can’t means you don’t want to!”) I’ve given lessons to women in their 60s! If you want to learn to surf, begin training for it now. I offer tips about “Getting in Surfing Shape,” and just like training for any other sport, if you begin to see the results, you will stay motivated. Soon you will be paddling faster, popping up quicker, and riding the wave longer.

3. Surfing is too dangerous.

Surfing can be dangerous, especially if you don’t know what you’re doing or are out in conditions that you should not be. Make sure you take several lessons with a competent, knowledgeable and experienced surf instructor. Surfing isn’t just about riding a wave, it’s about safety, etiquette, proper board and wave selection, weather and swell conditions and other important factors that you should be aware of. Never paddle out in conditions that are too big for you. Know what you are capable of. As a beginner, riding a small, knee-high wave is just as much fun for you — as a head-high wave is for a more experienced surfer. Remember, you don’t have to prove anything. It’s all about having fun and enjoying the ocean.

4. Falling is going to hurt!

Every surfer wipes out. As a beginner, it will happen many times. Luckily, water is very forgiving, and if you know how to relax and not try to fight it, you will be fine. If you’ve taken surf lessons, you will know how to protect yourself when you do fall to avoid injuries. At first, you may feel like you are inside a washing machine, but if you change your mindset from “Oh no!” to “Okay, here we go!” your wipeouts won’t be intimidating.

5. Surfing is too difficult to learn.

Good surfers really make it look easy, don’t they? The truth is, surfing has a very high learning curve but that shouldn’t intimidate you. You will begin to realize that paddling through whitewater, catching your own waves, and getting to your feet takes a lot of endurance, patience and practice. Don’t expect to be the next Kelly Slater after your first lesson, but if you train hard, get in the water regularly and have fun, I promise you will be thankful that you ignored your fears and went for it! And when you catch that perfect wave — and ride it all the way in, you will turn around and go right back for more!

Photo Credit: Sarah Schwind

Lesson Learned the Hard Way!

I just returned from Florida - it was the best weather Florida has had in January in the past 20 years!  Our days were spent on the beach all day, every day and a great surf spot developed just a few blocks down from where we were staying.  The first two weeks brought warm water and fun, clean waves nearly every day.  Our good friends were down for the month as well so it was fun to have someone to surf with since Jay and I have to take turns with our boys.  We also met some great locals in the line up and on the beach, and saw some awesome friends we’ve made through the years.

Our great vacation came with a big accident.  It was a small, clean day and we had been out for several hours catching a lot of waves.  I was paddling out to the line up on my longboard when I was knocked off into the water accompanied by a sharp pain in my face.  I had been hit by an 11 foot paddleboard that my husband was riding.  I had just paddled past him as he was taking off on a wave and somehow his board slipped out from under him and turned backwards in my direction, hitting me at an angle in my right side of my face.

While under water, all I could do was pray to God that I wouldn’t black out.  Jay and my friend Lora, who also saw it happen, were both surprised when I surfaced on my own and grabbed my board.  I was actually pretty calm, considering what just happened, and I knew I just needed to get to the beach.  The right side of my face felt numb but I realized it was a lot bigger than normal!  I tried to catch a wave in but as surfers know, when you need one to take in, nothing comes!  I ended up paddling in and when I walked out of the water, Lora had an ice pack and assessed to see if I had a concussion, which I didn’t.  To be honest, I felt okay, until my nose began to bleed, a lot.  At that point, we all decided I should get checked out medically and by the time we walked back to our place, the EMTs were arriving.

After checking me over, I was told that I seemed okay and didn’t need to go to the hospital if I didn‘t want to.  After all, if it was a fracture, there wasn’t much to do.  After they left, Jay and I realized we wanted to get x-rays for our peace of mind so we headed to the ER.  After 5 hours in the ER, including a CT-scan and lots of waiting, we were told that I had 4 fractures throughout my cheekbone and around my eye.  The concern was for my vision and the muscles of my eye getting trapped within in the bones.  My eyesight in my right eye is the most important thing to me because my left eye is not so good so imagine our anxiety thinking that something really bad could happen.  I knew I was lucky to even be alive at that point - one doctor said that if the board had hit me straight on instead of that angle, my skull would have been crushed due to the velocity of that big board.

I was discharged with some pain meds and antibiotics and wasn’t told much else except that the worse was yet to come as far as the pain was concerned.  The ER doc said I would wake up the next morning in terrible pain so imagine my surprise when I slept fine that night and woke the next morning in less pain than the night before!  My mother had so many people praying for me that it’s no wonder I was feeling as good as I was.  The power of prayer works miracles!

We decided to stay the rest of the month since no specialist wanted to see me until the swelling went down and if I had to recover it may as well be on the beach!  By the time we made the drive home 10 days later, my face almost looked normal.  I went to a plastic surgeon who said he can operate to make it perfect again or I can leave it alone and it will heal as it will, maybe giving me some character in my face (a small dent here or there is much better than the risks and pain associated with breaking my bones again!).  I am going to see an ophthalmologist this week to make sure everything with my eye is okay but it all seems to be.  I should be ready for my surf trip to Hawaii in March and boy do I deserve it!

I know how lucky I am that this wasn’t worse.  One inch higher, I could have lost my eye or worse, been hit in the temple and be dead.  One inch lower and my jaw would have been affected or knocked my teeth out.  God was looking out for me that day - I know that for sure.  The way that the board turned backwards on me was something that was so unlikely to happen but it did.  My eyes have never been so open to my own mortality and as a mother of two young boys, it really made me put things into perspective.

I have been so focused on surfing lately that my priorities were getting messed up.  I was becoming greedy for waves.  I was out for hours that day getting so many fun waves and yet I still wanted more.  I actually went in to play with my boys on the beach but watching Lora and Jay catch more waves made me want to paddle back out!  My oldest son, Kai, even asked me to not go back out and to stay and play with him but I said I would only go catch one more.  While I was paddling out, I got caught on the inside by a five-wave set .  This made me think I should just go back in since I already had plenty of great waves that day -- but I didn‘t.  Now I am really angry at myself for not listening to all of those little signs.

I am so lucky and very thankful that God took care of me that day.  I am blessed that this accident wasn’t worse and that I am here today to be with my family and still have my eyesight.  When I think of what could have been the outcome I shudder at the thought and realize that this experience was meant to teach me something.  Guess I needed a paddleboard in my face to realize I need to reprioritize!

Thank you all for your prayers, thoughts and support during this crazy time!  I can tell you that I cannot wait to paddle back out to catch some waves but I will be keeping a safer distance from everyone on any kind of board!  The fact is, Jay is an experienced surfer and look what happened.  Now think about all the inexperienced people out there, especially on the paddleboards.  Lesson learned!

Cold Water Surfing Tips

Let’s face it — warm water is ideal for any surfer.  Unfortunately, many surf spots only have warmer water temps for a few months out of the year.  One good thing about the weather getting colder is that there are usually better waves in the fall and winter months, and most surf spots are less crowded than when it’s warmer.  The downside is that the water temps drop quickly so you need to adapt to the elements in order to be able to surf year-round.


I know many of you think we are crazy to get in the ocean when the water temps fall into the 30s and 40s and the air temps are about the same.  The desire to paddle out in near-freezing weather is the same reason surfers miss family birthdays, holiday gatherings, and will literally rearrange their lives to be near the ocean.

Surfing is a lifestyle and going for months without catching a wave is not an option.  Becoming a cold-water surfer doesn’t take much — you obviously need a thicker wetsuit, gloves, boots and hood, but you also need the right mindset.  A friend of mine once said that surfing in the winter is like a whole new hobby compared to surfing in the summer.

Here are a few tips to get you started surfing in the colder months:
 
1. Invest in a good wetsuit.  There are many different types of wetsuits on the market.  Each brand has different options to choose from, based on price and thickness.  As with most anything there are different levels of quality — good, better, best.  The best wetsuits will cost you more, but keep you warmer and last a lot longer than the less expensive ones.  The water temperature in which you will be surfing will determine what thickness of suit you need.  Depending on where you are, you may need several different wetsuits for different times of the year.

2. Boots, gloves and a hood — the thicker the better!  These come in different thicknesses like the wetsuits.  The thinner ones (3 mil) are great for surfing in the fall months, but if you want to go out in the ocean when the water is in the 30s, you will definitely need something thicker (5 or 7 mil).  Gloves also come in different styles.  I prefer gloves that fit like a real glove for dexterity purposes, while others prefer “mitten-type” gloves that are sometimes called “lobster-claw.”  It’s basically a personal preference.  Whatever you purchase, don’t make the mistake of buying too small or big.  They should be a little snug and awkward to put on — that is normal!



3. Never surf alone.  This is a good rule to follow any time of the year, but especially in the winter.  When it’s cold, there are fewer people on the beach and a lot fewer surfers in the water.  If you get hurt, you need someone there to help.  Even the best surfer should never paddle out by themselves.  Also, remember to bring your cell phone on the beach just in case.

4. When in doubt, don’t go out.  Know what you’re capable of.  You should never paddle out in conditions that you are unsure of, especially in the cold water.  Your reaction time is going to be slower due to the colder conditions and the added weight of your wetsuit.  You will not be able to stay out as long as you would like.  If you’re used to 2 – 3 hour surf sessions in the summer, you need to realize that you may only be able to last 30-60 minutes in the winter.  Some people also surf with a longer and/or thicker board in the winter due to the added weight from wetsuits and the increased difficulty with paddling.

5. Know what you are getting into.  Paddling on a surfboard is humbling enough for beginners in nice, warm conditions, but paddling out dressed in rubber is even more exhausting!  You may want to begin in small, clean conditions in order to get comfortable with your winter gear.  Know that when you go under, which you will, it will not be the most enjoyable experience.  In fact you will most likely get what feels like an “ice cream headache” without the ice cream!  It will subside quickly, but you must remember to relax and not panic — even if you take a few waves on the head as you get out to the line up.

6. Prepare yourself before you surf for after.  Park your car in direct sunlight. Find a place protected from the chilling wind.  Get dressed in the car with the heat on, or if you don’t have any stops to make, dress at home and drive in your wetsuit!  Bring a small cooler filled with warm water to rinse yourself when you get out of the water.  If you feel comfortable driving home in a wet wetsuit, put a lot of towels in the driver’s seat so you won’t soak your car and get undressed in your warm shower!

7. Learn when your body has had enough.  When it’s cold, you cannot surf as long as you would like to, even if the waves are great.  When I start feeling a chill, I know in a few more minutes I will begin to shiver.  This is when it’s time to take a wave into the beach because hypothermia is a serious medical condition that can come on quickly, especially when the water is in the 30′s or 40′s.

8. Stay in shape.  To be a good surfer you need continue your training throughout the winter months, especially when you can’t get out in the water as much as you want to.  Swimming is as close as you can get to paddling and will help build your endurance and confidence in the water.  Running, biking, and any other cardiovascular exercise at a higher intensity for 30-60 minutes a day will also help lengthen your surf sessions in any season.  Try to get in the water as often as you can because in order to become a better surfer you need to surf regularly!  After nearly three weeks out of the water, I surfed today and felt how much strength and endurance I lost in that short period of time.  If you’re wondering why you haven’t progressed in your surfing, but you’ve only been able to get out once or twice a month, that’s most likely the reason!

9. Plan a warm weather surfing vacation!  Nothing helps a surfer get through a cold winter more than traveling to a warmer climate.  I travel to Hawaii because I know I am guaranteed to have waves anytime I go, and plan my surf trips in an inexpensive way.  There are plenty of other surf destinations you can find at a reasonable price, but do your planning.  Make sure the waves are the type of waves you are comfortable in, or slightly out of your comfort zone.  If you prefer small, long boarding waves then you don’t want to book a vacation where the waves are steep, overhead barrels.




Just last week we had a day of fun, small waves with unusual warm air temps for December — it was actually the first day of winter!  We loaded up the kids to play on the beach and were able to surf with good friends all day long.  It felt like a summer afternoon at the beach (except for the ocean temperature hovering around 50 degrees).  Even though we had to wear our winter surfing gear, it was pure happiness for all of us with a day of much-needed play!

If surfing has become your lifestyle and you cannot imagine going a winter without catching a wave, it’s time to get comfortable in cold water.  People will think you are crazy for doing it, but that’s okay — only a surfer understands.  You will score fun, empty waves and keep yourself stoked until the weather warms up again.  Trust me, every time you go out you will catch at least one wave that makes it worth it!

Winter Surfing

Surfing is my passion. It’s what I live for, and I am a better wife, mother, friend, and person after I spend time in the ocean. If you know someone who surfs — woman or man –you know how much happier they are after a surf session. Most of the time it’s easy to get out there, and you just can‘t wait — warm, clear water combined with scorching hot summer weather makes it so inviting. If the temperature is right, all you need is a swimsuit, rash guard and sunscreen and you can stay out all day.


However, we live in a coastal area that gets colder weather beginning in November. Air temperatures begin falling, and water temps are not nearly as inviting. Winter makes it really difficult to get yourself stoked to go surfing. You can surf throughout the entire winter if you have the right apparel – wetsuit, gloves, boots and a hood. We often get better waves in the fall and winter months, so it’s worth getting your gear on to catch even a few good waves when most people wouldn’t consider going in the water. I believe it’s more about desire and attitude. Even on the worst day, you still can have a great session — as long as you don’t talk yourself out of it first!

A few weeks ago we had some fun waves rolling in with warmer than average air temperatures for this time of the year. My husband and I were able to get away to surf, but by the time we arrived at the beach, a cold front had moved through our area which made the temperatures drop below 50 degrees, and the wind picked up to over 20 mph. Our enthusiasm quickly diminished, especially when we crossed the dune and saw a good swell become less than inviting.

At that point I easily could have talked myself out of surfing or allowed my husband to convince me it really wasn’t worth it — as he decided to go back to work. Instead, I told myself that I would regret not going out, even if the conditions weren’t the best. After all, I had a sitter for my two boys and some much needed time to myself.
After squeezing into all of my wetsuit gear, I paddled out into a lineup of quite a few people. As I sat there listening to everyone complain about how bad it was, how cold they were or that the waves were better earlier, I decided to tune everyone out and just enjoy this time to myself. As a mother, I welcome and appreciate every free minute I get, and surfing is my favorite way to spend time without my two awesome little boys around.

After catching a few waves, most of the other surfers began leaving the water, and soon it was just one of my girlfriends and me left. Within seconds of the last person leaving the beach, the wind died down almost completely; the water glassed off and the waves coming in were perfect:
A-frame, chest high, peeling walls of water that every surfer dreams of surfing — and they were all ours! We had so much fun out there and stayed until the sun went down. I remember one particular wave that I am still smiling about every time I think about it! Truly a memorable day!

I share this story because so many of us find ourselves in daily situations where we discourage ourselves and others from experiencing great opportunities. It’s so easy to talk ourselves out of doing something challenging or to complain to others so they become discouraged. Often it takes more effort to talk ourselves into doing something that could be better for us such as exercising, eating well, getting more sleep, or learning a new sport. Was it worth going surfing that day when no one else seemed to think so? You bet it was, and I know I will do it again…all winter long!

We All Need to Play!

People often ask me how I am able to do so much — run, surf, teach surf lessons and play with my boys!  My answer is simple — the more active I am, the more I am able do and not get tired.  As winter approaches, I have to work harder to find ways to stay active in the colder weather, but know that out of necessity, I need to get outdoors every day.

Have you noticed that when you sit around all day, you feel very tired?  Our bodies want to move as much as they can.  They don’t like being sedentary, and they don‘t understand the issues with changing seasons.  The days that I am not as active, I can’t seem to find the energy or patience that I have on other days when I stay in motion.  Being active is like an addiction. Once you start moving, your body will want to move even more!

Many people suffer from depression during the colder months due to shorter days, lack of sunshine and just not doing as many outdoor activities as they do in warmer weather.  I know I get pretty moody if I am stuck in the house all day!  The same applies to our children as well.  They need to be active as much as possible throughout the day for their own mental well-being and focus, too.

As a parent, it is imperative to stay active to keep up with your children and to model a healthy lifestyle for them.  My grandmother always told me, “When your children are young, they will do as you say, but when they are old, they will do as you did.”  Don’t you want to be a great example for your children?  Teach them that being active is about having fun and should be a way of life. It isn’t about doing things that you dread or don’t look forward to.  It should be a priority each and every day — and doesn’t need to be something structured.

To be active on a daily basis, you need to find things that you enjoy doing.  Find activities that you look forward to so they become a priority over other things.  In our home, when the conditions get good for surfing, nothing else matters— and we all head to the beach.  If you like to run, bike, do yoga or walk, find a time every day to do that.  Our boys know that my day doesn’t begin until I go running, and before we get going on their homeschooling, they bike, surf, run or play a sports game that they enjoy.

Children are so impressionable, it’s important to get them into an active lifestyle as young  as possible.  I used to think that letting them play as much as I did would tire them out for nap time or bedtime.  This is not the case anymore!  I could not figure out why after playing at the beach all day, they were not tired when we returned home.  A friend said that since I keep them so active, they are similar to endurance athletes, and now they can keep going longer than I can!



If you already are an active person, you know what I am saying is true.  The more active things you do, the more you are able to do.

Here are some fun ways to get yourself and your children even more active — to get more energy.

• Make being active a priority EVERY day!  Find the time and stick with it – with no excuses.
• Do activities that you enjoy doing and that are fun.  I enjoy surfing, but also like to run or bike to get my day started.
• Try to exercise in the morning.  You will have more energy throughout the day and are more likely to get it done.  Same with your children — if they can get active a little before school, they should!
• Learn to say “NO.”  You do not have to be a super busy mom to be a good parent.  It’s okay to say no to others, even your children, if it takes time away from your own needs.  It’s not being selfish. It’s you just setting a good example–to say that you, too, are important.
• Encourage your children to go outside and play…and then go with them!  Let them be kids and play freely, unstructured without set rules.  A little imaginative play is very important, and many children do not know how to play anymore.
• When your young children are trying your patience, think about what they have done that day.  Did they get some activity?  Were they able to run and expend their energy?  If not, send them out to play.
• Training schedules are important, but they are not written in stone.  Rest days are important, but may not be necessary for all activities.  If today is your required rest day, but you feel like you want to do another activity, do it!  You need to listen to your body before all else. It may not need or want a break — or conditions may be perfect for a specific sport or activity!
• If you are feeling low on energy, just get up and do something.  I guarantee you will feel better and happier once you get going.
• Cold weather makes for a little more planning and maybe some warmer clothing, but it will be well worth it.

Remember, a happy mom and/or wife makes for a happy family!  You are important and since you do so much for others, you also need to do some things just for yourself, too!  It’s not selfish to want to go outside and play! You will be teaching your children a valuable lesson.  And they will be happier and healthier as well!  So get up…get out… and get moving! Your body will thank you for it. And since you will be happier, your family will thank you for it, too!